Sardine Satisfies – Restaurant Review
Sardine
New restaurants open in Madison with amazing frequency. So, when a restaurant wins the 2007 Mad Diner Award for Best New Restaurant by a landslide, it deserves an in-depth look. This prompted us to invite some friends and head to Sardine to weigh in on the decision. We had relatively early reservations on a Saturday night, and had no problem getting seated on what turned out to be a busy dining evening.
Sardine’s early 20th Century Industrial interior combined with the bistro ambience would lead one to the conclusion that this restaurant was a long established Madison tradition rather than the 2007 winner of the Mad Diner Best New Restaurant award. One of the most alluring features is the wall of french doors leading to a view of Lake Monona. In a lake-laden town like Madison, one would expect many such lakefront dining opportunities, but puzzling as it may be, few restaurants offer such a view. Our visit fell in the heart of a very long winter, but that did not detract from the atmosphere.
Arriving deliberately early for our reservations, we were seated in the spacious bar. Service was helpful and friendly, and we were set up with our drink order while perusing the menu for appetizers to enjoy. Sardine offers a reasonably diverse selection of local, domestic, and imported beers ranging from Lake Louie Scotch Ale to Stella Artois. A selection of wines by the glass is also offered.
We selected two appetizers for the table to share. The shellfish eaters among us ordered the steamed mussels and frites with mayonnaise ($8). The mussels were plentiful and served in a very well seasoned broth with springs of fresh thyme. Warm goat cheese and crostini with arugula salad ($9) was flavorful, with the creamy goat cheese accented with tomato and olives.
Sardine’s menu has not changed dramatically since the restaurant first opened in 2006. We had heard rumors at that time that one of the signature offerings would be, not surprisingly, sardines. However, we’ve not seen it offered on any of the trips that we’ve made to the restaurant. One of the members of our party questioned this, and we were told that sardines are offered when in season. Our server wasn’t sure when the sardine season was… perhaps summer, and perhaps supplied from the Mediterranean.
On this visit four different dishes were ordered. The orecchiette with broccoli rabe, oven roasted cherry tomatoes, roasted garlic, niçoise olives and parmesan ($13) was prepared to al dente, with a very light sauce which allowed the tomatoes, olives, and cheese to stand out. The seared artic char over braised white bean pistou, grilled bread and petite salad ($22) was a robust meal on a winter evening. The white beans were prepared perfectly so that they maintained their structural integrity on the plate, and were firm to the bite. Outside of Lombardino’s, this was the best use of beans in an entree that we’ve experienced in Madison.
The Steak frites, a grilled ribeye steak with compound butter and frites ($23) was deemed cooked to perfection. The ribeye, while not being as thick as steakhouse trends have taken servings, was very well portioned for the price. The frites (or thinly sliced french fries) were mounded high on the plate as an accompaniment. The Pan-seared skatewing, sautéed broccoli rabe, fingerling potatoes with a lemon butter sauce ($18) was a good sized portion of white fish, dotted with capers, and served with a wedge of fresh lemon along the side. The broccoli rabe added a fresh green accent to the dish.
We also ordered some garnitures (or side dishes). The hericots verts and the sauteed spinach (both $4) were fresh and cooked to a perfect crispness. They added a nice touch to the entrees.
Though satisfied by the meal, we could not pass up dessert when offered. Two desserts caught our eyes. The seasonal sorbet ($6) was an intensely flavored pear sorbet, dotted with fresh blackberries and a sprig of mint. The creme brulee ($6) was perfectly prepared, with a crunchy caramelized sugar crust leading to a creamy, warm butterscotch custard underneath. This was the hit of the table.
In conclusion, our Madison Diners did not lead us astray when they told us that Sardine should win the Mad Diner Award for Best New Restaurant. We would encourage Sardine to freshen their menu on a regular basis, as it is somewhat limited and return visitors may wish to seek out more dishes than are offered. Still, we expect that Sardine may be around long enough to one day qualify for the Mad Diner award for Best Madison Tradition!
Sardine
617 Williamson Street
Madison, WI 53703
(608) 441-1600
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 5pm to 10pm;
Friday & Saturday 5pm to 11pm;
Sunday 9am to 9pm, Brunch 9:00-2:30
I really enjoyed eating at Sardines very much. The food was very good. I had the porkchop dinner. Best porkchop I’ve ever had. My friend had the pasta with duck and that was excellent! Service was great. I will be going back. Excellent deserts! I highly recommend trying this place. Call for reservations.
I did enjoy Sardine, as did my companion. The bar staff knows their craft well. Impeccable Old Fashionds.
However:
The Prime Rib (by Wisconsin steak standards) is scant. And I don’t care if you do call them “frites.” Half a plate of fries and a petite steak that will cook to medium before your drink arrives doesn’t work. My thought would be to turn out this dish as a slightly thicker steak served au poivre, cooked medium, with a single baked pomme-de-terre. Add a little whipped butter, fresh chive, with some roasted garlic on the side, and see how that sells. I know I’d buy it!
My friend had the Grilled Salmon. Spectacular! Don’t change a thing.
The warm duck confit salad is the next thing I want to try. It hasn’t seen a bad word anywhere, and it’s certainly on my list for next time!
There’s my $0.02 worth. All in all, a good time. Just work the work the steak for me a little, ok?
A grand destination for either a group or a romantic night on the town. Every dish that I have either ordered or graciously offered from another has been perfectly prepared and cooked to perfection. I find it hard to not order the skate wing as it has become an entree that is hard to forget. Seared perfectly and served with that delicate caper sauce!
The only gripe, and it really comes down to me being a snob, was a picollo frito served with a saffron aioli. My feeling would be to use a different oil for the emulsion as the oil used left a lingering aftertaste that stole the show from the saffron.
A little side note to Bill H. III. No offense to you Sir but with so many amazing choices why one would go with a “supper club” standard of Prime rib. I am assuming that with your knowledge of Steak Au Poivre your palate would be a skosh more adventurous.